Tag Archives: Tips

How to Achieve that Basic Smoky Eye by Makeup Artist, Jenny Karl

14 Dec

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As a working makeup artist in Los Angeles, I do a lot of red carpet, special event, and photo shoot makeup.  At least 90% of my clients are still asking for that basic smoky eye. It seems like it will never go out of style.  And honestly, even though my clients all look different (different skin color, eye color, eye shape, etc.), I most always use the same colors, tools, and techniques to give them that sexy, smoky eye that they desire. This is one of the most important how-to’s you will ever read.  Here is how you can achieve that basic smoky eye that all the celebs are and will be rockin’ for years to come!

Step 1: Eye primers are a relatively new product, but once you start to use it and see the results, you will never forget to apply it again.  Your shadows will not only apply smoother, but will last all day and night. If you are a tranquil sleeper, you will wake up with your eyes still completely in tact and although, I wouldn’t make a habit of doing that, it is an interesting experiment. Apply a shadow primer, like Luminizing Eye Primer by Bodyography, all over the eyelids to prep the eyes for color application and encourage longer wear. * Tip: Also apply an eye cream under the eyes, like all-natural Rose Eye Cream from http://www.ClearandSmoothSkin.com to brighten, hydrate, and tighten fine lines.

Step 2: After your primer is blended smooth, use a natural hair lid brush, like the crease brush from http://www.Jordanessentials.com, to apply a soft iridescent, neutral eye shadow, such as www.HerbsofGrace.com loose mineral eye shadow in Oatstraw, to your entire eyelid and under the brow for highlight. Also, a good rule of thumb is ‘Everything you do on top, also do on the bottom.’ Taking this champagne color under the eye as well with the same brush will give the eye balance.  And don’t worry, you can’t mess this up.  You can really pile this natural base and highlight color on without over doing it.

Smoky Eye

Smoky Eye

Step 3: Just on the ball of the eye (where the eye protrudes), apply a mid tone shadow in a neutral plumy brown, like MAC Shadow in Haux. Use a smaller shadow brush, like Kevyn Aucoin’s Small Eyeshadow Brush, and apply color exactly on the lid, also taking the color lightly under the eyes again with the same brush. This will not only give the eye balance, but also add a little more drama. Apply lightly at first and add more as needed until you get your desired color and depth.

Step 4: Three things to remember when applying the dark crease color- be patient, be precise, and blend. This is the hardest part so allow yourself some time for this step. Lightly and softly begin to apply an opaque black color, like Herbs of Grace eye shadow in Nightshade, to form your smoky crease.  Use the natural hair crease brush, to obtain the cleanest application and smoothest blending. Using a more precise angle brush, like Jordan Essential’s Eye Liner Brush, also bring the darker shadow under the bottom lashes to emphasize that sexy dramatic look. Be careful this time not to over do the black color under the eyes. It’s really easy to accidentally give yourself those dreaded raccoon eyes with this dark color.

Step 5: Now we are on to the eye liner. I know this seems like a lot of steps, but once you have it down, you will be able to do it with your eyes closed and your hands tied behind your back (well one hand at least). I have said it before, and I will say it again, black gel liner is the greatest invention since, well, I don’t know what. It’s just fabulous and has transformed the look and application of the smoky eye. Using a smooth black gel liner, like Mac’s Creme Pot Smudge Proof Liner in Black, gently trace around the entire inside edges of your eyes (the water line). Retrace if needed for more intensity. Then apply the liner softly on the top lid as close to lash line as possible, directing the line upwards toward the end of the eye. Blend out with the angle brush angling upwards at the end of the eye creating that cat’s eye effect. Keep adding and blending the liner until you achieve to your desired smokiness and sexy cat eye. But be quick because once this liner dries, there is no moving it around.

False Eyelashes

Don’t forget to curl your lashes and apply a coat or three of lengthening and thickening mascara, like Jordan Cosmetics Black Fiber Mascara, http://www.anessentialyou.com Long, thick, fluffy lashes will perfect this smoky eye look. Just add a bit of sheer gloss and you will be red carpet ready!

Jenny KarlJenny Karl owns and runs Jenny Karl Hair and Makeup Agency based in Los Angeles. The agency has a highly trained team of hair and makeup artists, specializing in Airbrush Foundation, Print, Film, Television, Beauty, Fashion, Special Event, Mens and Ethnic hair and makeup

http://jennykarl.com/

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Put Your Best Face Forward & Exfoliate!

4 Dec

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One of the steps we most commonly skip in our skin care routine is exfoliation. It is not a daily necessity but if you add this step into your weekly routine you will notice the difference almost immediately. So, in preparation for upcoming Holiday parties and winter weather, here is how and which gentle exfoliators we recommend use to put your best face forward! We’re suggesting gentle so as not to cause any irritation or skin melt-downs right before the Holidays!

The reason that exfoliation is important is that it is likely if you don’t ever exfoliate your skin is covered in dead skin cells. These dead cell can make your skin look dull, dry, and older. It will also have an effect on the way your makeup applies, specifically foundation, or how well your moisturizer absorbs. There are many different levels and types of ways to exfoliate such as microdermabrasion, chemical peels and retinoids. But for our purpose here are some tips and weekly (or bi-weekly) exfoliators that aren’t overly complicated.

TIPS:

1. Pick a scrub that is meant for the FACE. There are many body exfoliants in the market but they will be way too harsh for your face. Exfoliating body scrubs are usually thicker in consistency, sometimes contain oils, and are usually for exfoliation but not necessarily cleansing.

2.Always make sure to add luke warm, not hot, water while applying your exfoliator. Do not apply to dry skin as it can also make them too harsh. In fact most exfoliants are intended to be activated by using water.

3. Use gentle circular motion while massaging the skin. Do not damage your skin by thinking if you scrub harder it will make the product work better. Be kind to your beautiful face and take it easy.
4. Try our favorite exfoliating tool: Clarisonic They come in a range of options and colors and the new MIA is amazing as a gift available in tons of colors and you can personalize it! I did this for  my sister a couple of years ago and she loved it!
5. After exfoliation, don’t forget to apply your moisturizer! Always remember that a good moisturizer will not clog up your pores. It is a must for healthy nourished skin, especially when you are exfoliating.
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Cosmedicine Medi-Morphosis Self-Adjusting Exfoliator $18.97 One of the best safety features about this product is you can’t over-exfoliate with this scrub because the beads will start to dissolve before that even happen. It is great for sensitive skin and still highly effective without being harsh, it feels gentle.It is recommended for use twice weekly.

Noted by Cosmedicine: Inspired by the advanced exfoliation treatments performed in a physician’s office, this deep pore, resurfacing treatment with stop-action crystals: Accelerates the release of cellular debris, roughness, dullness and skin damage. Leaves skin smoother, brighter, more luminous and never over-exfoliated In clinical studies, it measured: 12% Reduction in pore size & Zero irritation or sensitivity among the 217 subjects tested.

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Olay Skin Smoothing Cream Scrub $4.79 at Drugstore.com. A conditioning beta-hydroxy formula with microbeads cleanses skin deeply while gently exfoliating to rejuvenate skin. It leaves a nice radiance and smooth feel. A good oil free option for every day use although you DO NOT need to exfoliate every day. This product may be slightly drying so remember to moisturize after use. This applies after use of any exfoliator.

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Dermalogica Daily Microfoliant $40.00 – 20% OFF at Drugstore.com Highly recommended but the priciest of our picks. This product starts out as a gentle, rice-based exfoliating powder which activates upon contact with water and turns into a lush foam. When activated it releases Papain, Salicylic Acid and Rice Enzymes that micro-exfoliate dead cells, instantly leaving skin smoother and brighter. Formulated without artificial fragrances and colors.

Bon Voyage Beauty!

5 Nov

The dreaded international flight. How to do right by your skin while 30,000 feet in the air for 10 hours? Just read on!

PRE-FLIGHT PREP

As important as it is to stay hydrated on a regular basis by drinking water it is doubly as important when you are getting ready to and while flying. Try to double up on your water in-take in the days leading up to your flight. If you aren’t regularly taking a fish oil then add it into your daily regime. The fatty acids in fish oil are proven to both help the brain and cardiovascular function and help skin cells retain moisture. It’s a good idea to also throw some in your carry-on for in-flight or during your time away. It’s a powerful punch for something that doesn’t take up valuable shopping space in luggage.

IN FLIGHT OPERATION

Even if you pick a couple of these tips it will do wonders for your arrival.

1. Drink lots of water even if it means getting up multiple times to the frustration to the aisle passenger.

2. Drink hot water with lemon, refreshing, hydrating, and lemon is key to metabolic boosting!

3. Use a Hydrating mist every few hours to keep your skin feeling refreshed and stop it from getting tight. Mario Badescu Facial Spray with Aloe, Herbs & Rosewater
Price: $11.95

4. During the flight, in addition to spritzing your mist, try to re-apply your moisturizer.  The constant air conditioning can suck the life out of your skin, so even if your skin is usually oily, you’ll notice it absorbing moisturizers much faster.

5. Apply lip balm. The same applies for the lips in that the cabin air will suck the nourishment up so try Smith’s Rosebud Salve, $6.00 or Caudalie Lip Conditioner, $12.00 both available at Sephora.

6. Sanitize – A breeding ground for germs it’s important to make sure you land healthy on the other end. The worst would be to find yourself on an amazing vacation and coming down with a cold 2 days later. Sanitize your hands with  L’Occitane Lavender Clean Hand Gel from the Provence to Go Collection, $7.00.

FAVORITE TRAVEL KITS

Trilogy Travellers takes the hassle out of packing and has everything you need to land with a glow. Plus I love the packaging! $37.00

Dermalogica Skin Kits have all the benefits of a full regimen… to go. Featuring convenient travel sizes in a durable travel pouch, your Skin Kit allows you to hit the road safe in the knowledge that you’re packing a full regimen of products. 35.00.

To read up on other travel kit options check out this article at Marie Claire.

UPON LANDING

Before you land give yourself a quick face wash with either a rinse free cleanser or a cleanser wipe. Simple Cleansing Facial Wipes $4.99 are some of my favorite nourishing wipes! They are non-comedogenic, use no alcohol, and have the added benefits of PRO-VITAMIN B5 which are known to help restore, soften and smooth skin.

Then make sure to re-apply your moisturizer and touch up your make-up with the bare minimum. To mask the jet lag try a concealer, YSL Touche Eclat Radiant Touch, $40, to cover up dark circles and redness. Then add a couple coats of mascara, such as Covergirl LashBlast Length Mascara, $6.94, to open up your eyes. And lastly, a lip or cheek stain in a soft pink or peach shade to hide any redness from the flight. If you go with a creme it also has the added benefit of creating a dewy look with appears more youthful and energized. It’s better to look clean and effortless while traveling.

Bon Voyage ladies… arrive in style!
xo, Jaclyn

False Lashes Cheap and Easy: Full Strip and Individual Lash Application

26 Oct

Hollywood lash experts, like my fabulous team at Jenny Karl Hair & Makeup Agency, are known for their 10 second flat lash application using inexpensive drug store products, like Ardell brand lashes and glue. It’s a relatively simple technique that with the right products (and practice, of course) you too can master false lash application easily and economically.

First of all, you will need to invest in a few keys products, all of which can be purchased at your local drugstore and within your budget.

1. Ardell LashGrip Eyelash Adhesive: Is white in color at first, but dries perfectly clear.  It’s also water soluble, so it’s gentle and easy to remove. However, if you have a latex allergy, look for Ardell Lash Tite Latex-Free Eyelash Adhesive as an alternative.

2. Ardell 100% human hair, full band lashes: You may want to start with more natural looking lashes verses the really dramatic ones until you get used to the look, feel, and application technique.  Fashion Lash # 105, 108, 109, and 110 are all great choices. Rule of thumb: Darker hair colors should use black lashes and lighter tones should opt for the brown shade. Also, look for the Ardell Fashion Lashes Starter Kits with glue and lashes in one.

3. Ardell Duralash Naturals Individual Lashes in medium length.  These also come in shades of black or brown. If you’re feeling daring, look for Ardell Duralash Naturals COMBO Pack containing 3 sizes of individual lash clusters, using the shorter size toward the middle of the eye and the longer length at the ends, creating that elongated cat’s eye look.

*All products mentioned average around $4.00 each in most drug store beauty sections.

Application Steps: Full Strip

1. Curl your lashes and apply most of your eye makeup first, so that once your lashes have adhered to your eye, you do not risk loosening them with brushes, etc. Gently slide the lashes out of the container and hold the band of the lash at both ends, flexing it lightly for a moment to soften it. Measure both lashes before fastening by lying the lash on top of your natural lashes as close to your lash line as possible, starting at the outer edge. If the band is too long and is intruding on the inside corner of your eye, remove the lash, and sparingly trim the outer end with scissors to fit your eye shape exactly.

2. Holding the lash gently, exposing the band, apply a thin, even layer of adhesive along the band using a toothpick or a q-tip stick with the cotton ball torn off the end.  Make sure you do not neglect the corners.  Wait 15-30 seconds for the adhesive to get tacky.  Apply lashes one at a time, making sure the first is on correctly and has adhered properly to the lid before starting the other.

3. Using a mirror, look downwards a bit, but try not to close the eyes at all during this process. This action will dramatically change the shape of the eyelid, risking the lash to pop off or become misshaped (blinking is ok however!) Press lash band onto the skin, on top of your natural lashes, as close to the roots as possible. Gently press the corners with your fingertips or tips of fingernails until the full lash is secure. Wait 1-2 minutes for glue to dry clear. It also may take a few minutes for your eyes to adjust to the weight of the lashes, so you may feel a heaviness that will eventually subside.

4. After the glue is completely dry, you may apply a bit of mascara to affix your lashes with the false ones (making them one) and giving a bit of lift and luster.  You may also want to apply a liquid, cream, or powder liner gently to the lid with a soft brush to conceal the band (no hard pencils though!)

5. To remove, gently peel off the lash, starting at the outer corner, slowly working your way across the eyelid. Shed the old adhesive from the lash band and place lashes back into their half moon shaped tray for reuse. Treat your lashes with care and respect and you can use them multiple times, getting more for your hard earned money.  

***Opting for individual lashes is also a great choice. You can use them just at the ends for a cat’s eye look, create your own unique shape across your entire lid, or just naturally fill in your lashes just where needed to enhance length and volume.

Application Steps: Individuals

1. First visualize the look you are going for.  Do you want to use the individual lash clusters just on the ends to elongate the eye? Or do you want to use them sporadically across the whole lid to add some volume and length to your natural lashes? Curl lashes and apply a coat or two of lengthening and thickening mascara.

2. Gently lift one lash cluster at a time from the tray with tweezers. Rest the individual lash on top of your natural lashes to make sure you like the placement and look.

3. Holding the lash gently with your clean fingernails or a tweezer, apply a tiny dot of glue to the end of the lash cluster and place in desired area on lid. Press the lash down lightly with tip of your clean finger or nail until the adhesive sets. Apply 5-10 lash clusters gradually from the inside out until blended.

4. The adhesive is water soluble, so lashes will come off easily with a bit of cleanser and water or makeup remover on a q-tip. Pull off gently after softening, diligently avoiding your natural lashes.  Ardell also has a lash remover formulated specifically to remove their lashes and adhesive called LashFree Adhesive Remover.

PS… Using a decadent eye cream like Vivid MD SkinCare “Perfection C” serum under and around the eye area in the evening after you remove your false lashes will soothe and smooth the whole eye area as you snooze!

environment as well. I call it “No Guilt” skincare. Now if only we could find chocolate cake in that variety.

 

Jenny Karl owns and runs Jenny Karl Hair and Makeup Agency based in Los Angeles. The agency has a highly trained team of hair and makeup artists, specializing in Airbrush Foundation, Print, Film, Television, Beauty, Fashion, Special Event, Mens and Ethnic hair and makeup

http://jennykarl.com/

Want Gorgeous Hair Color The Safe All Natural Way? Here’s How!

19 Oct

Photograph by Annie Edmonds

Since October is breast cancer awareness month, I think it’s appropriate to discuss the dangers of using unregulated cosmetics, especially synthetic hair dyes! According to the International Agency for Research on Cancer, “Based on the data regarding bladder cancer, it has concluded that workplace exposure [to hair dye] as a hairdresser or barber is “probably carcinogenic to humans.” I assume that women who use hair dyes on a monthly and consistent basis are also at risk.

Conventional hair dyes are loaded with deadly chemicals. Some of these chemicals have been linked to serious health problems and even cancer! Not to mention testing on animals. I do not advise using synthetic permanent hair color, ever! Whether it’s from a box or your local hair salon it is hazardous to your health. It could affect the lymph and endocrine systems as well as your bladder and breasts, if you are exposed to it on a consistent basis. Here is a list of the deadliest chemicals in synthetic hair dyes: P-Phenylenediamine (PPD or coal tar, which is a known carcinogen), aminophenol, ethanolamine, hydroquinone, and 2, 4- diaminophenoxyethanol.

As soon as these toxins are rinsed from our hair, they are leached into waterways and the ground. Not only does this hurt our health and well-being, but it hurts our environment.

For years, my mother used black synthetic hair dye, and her mother before her. Every month she would dye her hair with these toxic chemicals, unaware of the dangers lurking. Black hair dye is one is the most toxic because of a higher concentration of the ingredients listed above, as well as ammonia, peroxide, sulfur, and harsh smelling fragrances. Every time she used the dye it would penetrate her scalp via the pores and enter her bloodstream. I finally convinced her about three years ago to change her ways. I was worried for her health because long term use can affect a person later in life.

So, you are probably wondering what your options are:

Henna dates back to the ancient Egyptian, Persian and Indian times and has been used as a safe alternative to dye the skin and hair. It comes from a small shrub tree also known as the Lawsonia Inermis. The leaves are dried and milled down into a soft powder to create a paste that makes a natural hair color. One of my favorite ways to be a beauty who loves nature is by using henna to color my hair. It’s all natural and leaves my hair looking shiny and feeling incredibly soft. There is also neutral henna, which is a non color henna. It can be used to make the hair shiny and soft without adding color.

Surya Brasil is a wonderful henna hair coloring brand that I came upon in Whole Foods one day. They have premixed henna colors ranging from light brown to black. The brand is completely vegan, sustainable and provides a pair of gloves and a hair cover with easy directions and use. It took me about an hour to complete my hair process and when I was through, my hair felt amazing! Oh, and the smell is lovely! Every time you wash your hair a little color comes out, and you have to reapply about once a month to keep up the richness, if you so choose. It is completely safe for pregnant moms as well, according to Surya Brasil’s claims. Although, it’s best to check with your doctor if you are going to change anything pertaining to your health.

Check out your local health food stores to see what options they have for natural hair coloring. I suggest this one because it is the easiest to use. Other brands have you mix your own henna which takes a while and is quite messy.

Tips: If you are coloring your hair with a dark henna, it’s best to wear clothes you don’t care about staining. Use dark or old towels and follow the directions. When you rinse the product out of your hair for the first time, your shower will be covered in color! Don’t worry though, it rinses off easily.

Be Advised: PPD has also been linked to “Black Henna.” It is approved by the FDA for use in hair color but not on skin because of adverse reactions. Which makes absolutely no sense to me because, if it contains coal tar- a known carcinogen than why does the FDA approve it at all. If you are purchasing a henna hair color with PPD in it, it is not natural and you should NOT buy it. Just to clear the record whether or not the FDA approves the safety of cosmetics, they do not. It is the responsibility of the companies and individuals who manufacture and market the products they are selling. This is a statement straight off their website:

FDA’s authority over other cosmetic ingredients:

“Except for color additives, FDA does not have the authority to approve cosmetic products or ingredients, although the use of several substances in cosmetics is prohibited or restricted due to safety or environmental concerns. Importantly, cosmetic products and ingredients are required to be safe for consumers under labeled or customary conditions of use. Companies and individuals who manufacture or market cosmetics have a legal responsibility for the safety of their products. FDA can take action against cosmetics on the market that violate the law.”

Links and resources:

http://www.suryabrasil.com/en/linha.php?id=16

http://www.aubrey-organics.com/Category/24_1/Color.aspx

http://www.cancer.org/cancer/cancercauses/othercarcinogens/intheworkplace/hair-dyes

http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ProductandIngredientSafety/ProductInformation/ucm108569.htm

http://www.amazon.com/The-Green-Beauty-Guide-Fragrances/dp/0757307477

http://safecosmetics.org/

Megan is an eco-friendly, cruelty-free, organic Makeup Artist, based in LA. She is one of the first pioneers in the eco cosmetics movement and is part of The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics. She teaches her clients about how they can make eco conscious cosmetic purchases that will help them and the environment. She loves to hike, kayak, workout, and hang with her handsome hubby and doggie Hobo.

Please visit her website at: www.meganporschen.com

Cheat Your Way To Sultry Smoky Eyes!

17 Oct

 

Smoky eyes were never so easy! But it really is cheating! A successful sultry eye takes a bit of time but this technique works beautifully in a pinch!

 

 

Grab a light eyeshadow (like Thi Cosmetics’s Fai, Mac’s Vanilla or Chanel’s Lotus) and apply a soft wash over the entire eye. Then with a pony tail brush, take a darker shadow (like Cover Girl’s Tapestry Taupe, Nars’s darker shade in the Cleo duo, or Chanel’s Fauve), and blend/ smoke it with a windshield wiper motion into the crease of the eye, slightly above the crease, and into the outermost corner.

 

 

The upper edges of the smoky darker eyeshadow might seem a bit jagged or unfinished. Not quite the effortlessly gradated look you were hoping for. But don’t despair. Grab your concealer brush, and take a swipe of your fave concealer (like Laura Mercier’s Secret Camouflage).

 

 

Trace over the eyeshadow edges you want to erase or blend out and then use you finger to pat out the concealer.

 

 

You will be left with a a perfectly contoured smoky eye in seconds! Great cheat for defined, stand out, sexy eyes! Try it! It works like a dream!

 

3 More Beauty Tips from MakeUp Artist, Jenny Karl

12 Oct

1. The Classic Rosy Cheek

The old fashioned natural rosy cheek will never go out of style and is oh so easy to do. The look is best described as the flushed, just ran a marathon, or the I’m blushing with embarrassment cheek. There are many ways to achieve this look. If you have drier skin, try a cream blush or rouge, as my mother would call it. Choose colors that are similar to the color of a natural flushed cheek, such as rose or brighter pink colors. If you are a bit oily, you might want to opt for the powder version. A gel based cheek stain is also a great option for any skin type. Try to stay away from anything too shimmery. Matte colors work better for this look.

2. Quick Fix for Puffy Eyes

Whether you have been attacked by allergies or just didn’t get enough sleep, you have a few weapons against those puffy eyes. Some natural remedies include applying cold cucumber slices directly over the eyes for 5 – 10 minutes. If you’re low on produce that day, then cold damp teabags are a great alternative. Hydration and proper diet are also huge factors in preventing those pesky puffy eyes. So, drink lots of water, keep your diet full of fresh fruits and veggies, and stay far away from sodium and alcohol. Now, if you don’t have time for any of these natural remedies, then just apply a hydrating eye cream sparingly around the entire eye area and layer a light cream or liquid concealer under the eyes. If you must use a powder to set your concealer, then use it in moderation. Powder tends to sit in the lines of the eye and accentuate any imperfections.

3. Green Skin – Try going green for your skincare regime?

It has become more and more convenient to find organic skincare products and increasingly affordable to try them on for size. Next time you are in Whole Foods, glide through their beauty aisle. You will be pleasantly surprised by the selection of all natural beauty and body products to choose from and test out right in the store. Not only are these products good for your skin, but good for the environment as well. I call it “No Guilt” skincare. Now if only we could find chocolate cake in that variety.

 

Jenny Karl owns and runs Jenny Karl Hair and Makeup Agency based in Los Angeles. The agency has a highly trained team of hair and makeup artists, specializing in Airbrush Foundation, Print, Film, Television, Beauty, Fashion, Special Event, Mens and Ethnic hair and makeup

http://jennykarl.com/

 

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